#SuzyPod: Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski of Hermès

16 FEBRUARY 2021

Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski is the Creative Director of Hermès, a luxury brand with a deep history, founded on horse saddles, but now famous for its neckties, handbags and increasingly for its discreetly elegant clothes.

It is not just a mighty and classy brand, it is also a family business of six generations.

The Co-Chairs of Hermès today are two cousins: CEO Axel Dumas, and Vice-President and Artistic Director Pierre-Alexis Dumas, the son of Jean-Louis Dumas, who revolutionised Hermès and grew it as an international luxury company.

The current designer has become part of the family. Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, whose name reflects the variety of her background, talks to Suzy about how she is developing the brand as “quiet luxury”. Call her a purist or a gentle spirit, the designer’s aim is to move the brand forward, with imagination and intelligence.

Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski-Cybulski has been Creative Director of Hermes since 2014, having previously designed for The Row, Celine and Maison Martin Margiela

The artisanal roots have run deep in the house of Hermès since 1837, with over 20 artisan craft workers now producing, as well as Ready to Wear, fine-jewellery, lipstick, furniture, perfume, watches and, of course, those famous handbags.

The company, known for its house colour of warm orange, which is not listed with Pantone, maintains a responsible ethos to the planet, ensuring traceability, certification protecting and preservation. The Hermès artisans also work on ‘petit h’ – a concept that ingeniously transforms remnants of leather, silk, crystal, and porcelain, horsehair, buttons and metal into brand new objects.

You can listen to Nadège talk about her timeless and witty design, her approach to colour and form, what Hermès stands for, and how its horsy history has always galloped ahead in fashion, making Nadège an exceptional designer for a famous brand, here.

#SuzyPod: Artist Sterling Ruby’s S.R. STUDIO. LA. CA‪.‬ COUTURE

9 FEBRUARY 2021

Sterling Ruby explains to Suzy why he was invited to take part in Paris Haute Couture with his label S.R. STUDIO. CA. LA. COUTURE and how he went from a construction site to constructing haute couture, crossing the boundaries of art by using fashion as an artistic medium of self-expression.

Sterling Ruby photographed in California

Coming from a hippy and punk background, Sterling Ruby talks about the challenges he faces as an artist and designer in achieving an urban feel, working on the surface of materials with bleach, minerals and hand dying – pushing the boundaries between artistic mediums.

The artist first “dipped his brushes” in the fashion world when Raf Simons and he met and forged a relationship, which took them to Dior and Calvin Klein and beyond on a route of Americana.

Hear from the artist himself on his approach to couture and his rise to fashion through the art world here.

#SuzyPod: Leonard Lauder of Estée Lauder

2 FEBRUARY 2021

Suzy is joined by Leonard Lauder, the Chairman Emeritus of Estée Lauder, who is known around his company as “Chief Teaching Officer”. And for good reason.

As the brand turns 75, Leonard Lauder has written a book, The Company I Keep: My Life in Beauty, published by Harper Collins. As well as discussing his latest volume, he reveals how much he learnt from his mother, Estée Lauder, herself – and how he built a special connection with philanthropy and the world of art.

Leonard Lauder with Suzy at the company headquarters in New York

Leonard Lauder, who lives with his photographer wife Judy, discusses how he made Estée Lauder the General Motors of the beauty business, with multiple brands, product lines and multinational distribution.

Does the current beauty boom in tough times have parallels with the earlier post-World War boom? Or is it technology which has encouraged us to buy make-up online whilst we are all stuck at home?

Leonard tells us from his own lips how Estée set the standard, and how he has taken it to the future.

#SuzyPod: Philip Treacy

26 JANUARY 2021

Behind the story of the little boy who sneaked over to use his mother’s sewing machine is a man who has had a profound effect on famous fashion houses, from Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel to Ralph Lauren, Valentino and Gianni Versace.

He has made hats not just for his friends, like fashion lover Isabella Blow and designer Alexander McQueen, but also for the Royal Family, plus all the clients he has across the world. Some of his creations are formal, others are wild and wonderful – it is Philip who describes the hat as “not only an accessory, but a visual indicator”.

Philip Treacy at work on bespoke commissions in his London studio

The secret of Philip Treacy’s success is not his connection to fame – although well deserved – it is his extraordinary talent. This is all currently displayed in a large-scale exhibition of his hats at the Erarta Museum of Contemporary Art in Saint Petersburg, Russia, which has people queuing round the block to see it.

Learn more about his fascinating career here.

#SuzyPod: Wes Gordon for Carolina Herrera

15 DECEMBER 2020

Wes Gordon, the Creative Director of Carolina Herrera, talks to Suzy about dressing Kamala Harris in a white suit on the 7th of November 2020, the historic evening she became the first female Vice-President Elect of the United States of America.

The choice of designer and the fresh, bright white pant suit was a powerful symbol of the new attitude of President Elect Joe Biden.

Wes Gordon with Suzy in his New York studio

As the Carolina Herrera company celebrates 40 years in business, Wes Gordon reveals to Suzy what it’s like dressing actors from a young Meghan Markle to Katy Perry and Gwyneth Paltrow, and how he’s dedicated himself to the Herrera legacy, supported by Puig, the Spanish fragrance and fashion group.

Here the 33-year-old designer discusses his passion for flowers, nature and lively sense of colour, which contrasts with the urban sophistication of the New York studio, in our podcast.

#SuzyPod: Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood

8 DECEMBER 2020

This week I am joined by by Andreas Kronthaler, the designer otherwise known as Vivienne Westwood’s husband.

Andreas talks to me about transforming the Westwood story of sex, fun and punk into a thoughtful and successful brand. It now has a goal of activism, sustainability and a mission to persuade people to shop wisely and consciously.

Andreas Kronthaler with Suzy in his London studio

What did Andreas bring from his Austrian roots? Was he inspired to study jewellery from the influence of his blacksmith father? And how did he move from jewellery to fashion?

Andreas – usually leaving the talking to Vivienne – reveals unexpected details of the Westwood tale we thought we knew so well.

#SuzyPod: Giancarlo Giammetti of Valentino

1 DECEMBER 2020

Welcome to my third season of Creative Conversations with Suzy Menkes. This week I am joined by Giancarlo Giammetti, Honorary President of the Valentino Fashion House. Giancarlo has been so much more than a business partner, who shares with Valentino a passion for big boats, high mountains and creating the House of Valentino, which has earned a place in fashion history. The hyper-cultured Giammetti, who first studied architecture, has brought a sleek elegance to his various homes, where he has collected art and explored modern and contemporary work. Now that the Valentino company has an independent life, Giancarlo can look back at his many achievements, including building both a mighty business and a personal Valentino “family”. 

You can hear our Creative Conversation here.