#SuzyPod: Chanel’s Bruno Pavlovsky Future-Proofs Fashion

7 OCTOBER 2020 for Vogue.co.uk

For the final, fourth episode of Season Two’s Creative Conversations, the President of Fashion at Chanel shares his manifesto for the 2020s and beyond

Just as Chanel was presenting its Spring/Summer 2021 collection for Paris Fashion Week, we met with Bruno Pavlovsky, President of Fashion at Chanel, to discover his role in expanding the company’s presence in the fashion arena, first with Karl Lagerfeld and now with the late designer’s right hand, Virginie Viard. 

The executive has worked with the famous Paris company for 30 years, but his range extends far beyond the business that he handles for the Wertheimer brothers, the owners of Chanel.

Bruno Pavlosky with Suzy at the César Awards in Paris

Monsieur Pavlosky is dedicated to preserving and developing the skills of the exceptional and historic hand-workers of the Métiers d’Art who bring Chanel its exquisite artistry, from the expert embroideries of Maison Lesage to Maison Lemarié’s feathers and flowers. Chanel now supports more than 30 specialist artisan workshops that will shortly be moving to brand-new headquarters in the northeast of Paris and known as “Le 19 M”.

But the big news this season is “Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto”. That is the name of the exhibition that marks the reopening of the Palais Galliera Museum in Paris, where Chanel has invested more than seven million euros to help fund its renovation and extension. 

This is the first retrospective in Paris on the legacy of Gabrielle Chanel, and has been curated by the museum’s Director, Miren Arzalluz; its Artistic Director and fashion historian, Olivier Saillard; and Collection Curator Véronique Belloir.

Another big announcement for Chanel is its engagement with climate initiatives. The company has issued sustainability-linked “Green Bonds”, which pledge its dedication to care for our planet. 

Pavlosky is a rare thinker who aims to do more than sell Chanel – however successful he has been at raising its annual business to 10 billion euros. He claims that, in his words, “Chanel has entered the collective unconscious.”

Bruno Pavlovsky can sell a museum exhibition as easily as one of those iconic Chanel handbags. He has taken Chanel across the world, building a devoted clientele, but has retained its Parisian spirit. From our conversation I am happy to have learned that Gabrielle Chanel’s fashion manifesto is thriving and that the Coco spirit is going strong.

This episode concludes Season Two of Creative Conversations and marks the end of Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2021. I look forward to having more Creative Conversations with you very soon – I have some riveting guests lined up for Season Three. Do subscribe to suzymenkes.com; visit @suzymenkes on Instagram; and tune in here or on iTunes; Google; Spotify; Stitcherand YouTube.

In the meantime, stay tuned, stay safe, and stay stylish!

#SuzyPod: Paul Smith Talks Golden Jubilees And His Fashion Future

23 SEPTEMBER 2020 for Vogue.co.uk

For the second season of “Creative Conversations With Suzy Menkes”, the first four episodes are dedicated to the fashion capitals – New York, London, Milan and Paris. In Episode 2, Sir Paul Smith invites us into his London studio 

Paul Smith is celebrating 50 years in fashion. In this episode, he reveals the plans for his anniversary, and how – with his wife Pauline – he has built the Paul Smith label over half a century. Sir Paul, knighted by the Queen of England in 2000, opens his soul in the conversation, revealing his wisdom and explaining how he built his entire fashion empire, root to branch, over the last five decades. 

Suzy with Paul Smith at his London showroom-studio

Smith’s company was founded in one tiny Nottingham store and has grown into a global business spanning five continents. He takes me through the myriad quirky objects and funky toy animals sent to his London studio by doting clients. There is probably a bicycle buried somewhere among the lines of books!

To stay connected with and learn more about Paul Smith, visit him at Paul Smith and on Twitter, YouTubeand Facebook.

To join our conversation, tune in here or on  iTunes; Google; Spotify; Stitcherand YouTube.

#SuzyPod: In Conversation With Valerie Steele, The “Freud Of Fashion”

9 SEPTEMBER 2020 for Vogue.co.uk

For the second season of “Creative Conversations With Suzy Menkes”, the first four episodes are dedicated to the fashion capitals – New York, London, Milan and Paris. For Episode 1, we meet the indomitable Director and Chief Curator of The Museum at FIT

To launch this season, I’m joined by Dr. Valerie Steele, the Director and Chief Curator of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York, where she has presented more than 25 blockbuster exhibitions since joining the organisation in 1997.  

Steele has been a leading figure in raising international awareness of the cultural significance of fashion, and is a noted academic in the field of fashion studies, sharing her extensive knowledge of the fashion industry and the history of fashion in her more than 25 books. 

Suzy and Dr Valerie Steele at FIT in New York

This intelligent and engaging educator, recognised by fashion fans in the streets from Guatemala to Japan, has a wide and fascinating reach, her audience eager to hear her about what we wear and why.

Her scholarly vision and understanding of clothes through the centuries is second to none, and she is admired equally by her contemporaries and students alike.

As the world changes – and with it attitudes to women, the LGBTQIA+ community, and fashion itself – Valerie brings us crystal clarity and a glimpse of what our new post-Covid world might be.

To stay connected with and learn more about DrValerie Steele, follow The Museum at FIT on Instagram @museumatfit, Twitter, YouTubeand Facebook.

To join our conversation, tune in here or on iTunes; Google; Spotify; Stitcherand YouTube.